Dessert hummus is the trend everyone loves to be mad about
There are multiple trends at play here. “Plant-based eating has boomed in the last few years, making dessert hummus a super relevant sweet treat,” says Marzluff. In the past decade, more brands have understood that people who have vegan or gluten-free diets need more options. But there’s also been a proliferation of diets like paleo and keto, which have elevated protein into the be-all, end-all of nutrition.
Dessert hummus’s popularity of course turns sour in the context of America’s long tradition of racism and Islamophobia, as well as its tradition of. After all, the brand name “Crazy Camel” points to Middle Eastern aesthetics as it belittles them. But Pesso says the combining of influences is the nature of food in America’s melting pot after a certain point, and often it’s a good thing.
However, many dessert hummuses don’t include tahini — they are basically pureed chickpeas with sugar and other flavors. Food studies writer Anny Gaul disagrees with Pesso’s assessment from an etymological standpoint. While she acknowledges the word hummus itself can most simply be translated into “chickpeas,” she argues the word carries other linguistic and cultural meanings that cannot be applied to just anything that uses chickpeas.
,” she defines hummus as “an Arab dish adopted by Jews in Israel” and turned into a national symbol. “I can see why some peoples — especially those whose cultural production and heritage have systematically been devalued, and at the same time robbed by the West — would mind that Americans call hummus their own,” she says.
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