The Secret to Delicious Vegan Korean Food Is My Fish-Free ‘Fishy’ Sauce

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The Secret to Delicious Vegan Korean Food Is My Fish-Free ‘Fishy’ Sauce
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Loads of fermented, briny, and umami flavor.

By the time I was 10, I knew my way around the kitchen well enough to make myself a bowl of rice with some soy sauce and sesame oil . And although I was unfamiliar with how to use the vinegars and rice wines my mother kept, they looked harmless enough. The fish sauce, however, was pungent and smelled like, well, fish, and I steered clear of it until I was far more adept at cooking.

In Korea fish sauce is usually made of fermented anchovies. Indeed, the preparation of fish sauce in Korea is similar to how kimchi is prepared—just add salt and time. Fish sauce is typically a nonnegotiable ingredient when making cabbage kimchi—it imparts an intense flavor that pairs perfectly with the pickled cabbage, while the bacteria in the fermented anchovies facilitate faster fermentation of the vegetable.

Take, for example, gamja tang, a stew traditionally made with pork and potatoes. Many recipes of this classic Korean comfort dish call for fish sauce. Not only does it infuse the stew with the rich piquancy of the sea, fish sauce also enhances all the other flavors that combine to create a powerful and satisfying broth.

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