Let them eat brioche. (As long as they are the sort of person who spends days chasing the latest in time-intensive bread recipes.)
“As a cook, I don’t want to be showy, but I always want to do something different.”
Ng first developed a formula for a milk-less brioche extra rich in butter and eggs so that it wouldn’t just taste like pain au lait. And although the brioche was delicious, she said, “It was just a delicious French bread.” She then tried to caramelize the top of the loaf with honey butter while it baked, but wanted the bread to be more tender all the way through. So she decided to try cooking the dough completely on the stove while basting it with honey butter.
It has the yeasty depth of sourdough without the self-righteous austerity, the buttery richness of brioche with an almost custardy eggyness, the welcome bitter edge of dark caramel seeping into the bread and running all over the plate. Take the butter out of the refrigerator and cut into tablespoons. Place on a plate in a single layer to soften. When you press into a piece, it should yield to pressure like Play-Doh. Use some more butter to lightly butter a large container or bowl.
6. Holding a piece of dough with both hands, flatten it slightly, then pull the edges under to form a tight ball. Put the ball in one palm, then cup your other hand around the ball and rotate that hand to tighten the ball further while giving it a perfectly round shape. The dough will be sticky, but don’t flour your hands or the dough. Transfer the ball to a buttered paper square, top side up. Repeat with the remaining dough. Arrange the balls on a sheet pan, spacing an inch apart.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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