S.S. Daley's fall 2022 menswear collection features super-wide leg trousers, tailored jackets, English knitted vests and cardigans, and billowing white shirts. View the looks now:
“Upstairs, downstairs—who’s inside and who’s outside?” Steven Stokey Daley’s one-liner about his fall show neatly captured the dynamics of the drama that was playing out around his set. At first glance, what with the four-poster bed, long dining table, chaise longue, and garden picnic spread under a tree, it looked as if he might be about to stage all the world’s Downton Abbey, Brideshead, and Chatsworth country house-type fantasies rolled into one. That might’ve been cozy and nice.
Stokey Daley has turned his clever gaze away from interrogating the public school culture of the likes of Eton and Harrow. Now—not far off—but with a wider scope of historical references, he’s turned to looking at “the dissolution of the English stately home.” Or the queering of it, really. Definitely not your predictable Edwardian mini-series plot, anyway.
The actors this time were London dance school students, instead of the members of the National Youth Theatre who co-created the play that explosively launched SS Daley as an audience-facing entity. The clothes didn’t stray from the main strengths of Stokey Daley’s appeal, but extended them for all genders. Men and women alike wore his super-wide leg trousers, tailored jackets, English knitted vests and cardigans, and billowing white shirts.
It wasn’t costume, and it held much more to think about and to remember than a regular up-and-down runway show. With his saleable clothes, Stokey Daley is one of the remarkable young phenomenons to have come out of Britain’s lockdown years. In the hands of a fresh generation London’s beginning to look very different now and full of promise.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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