Anissa Helou hits a milestone birthday, plus our best stories of the week.
, its brilliance lies in the connectivity Anissa weaves among cultures through recipes. Page after page of rice and meat dishes might look repetitive, but their specificity and distinct techniques elucidate what distinguishes, say, an Indonesian biryani flavored with lemongrass and simmered in coconut cream from Malabar chicken biryani perfumed with saffron, rosewater and garam masala.
It was around the time of the publication of “Levant” that my closest friend, Caline, knowing that she’d ignited my culinary interest in her native Lebanon, suggested that I start following Anissa on. In 2015 when I traveled for work to London , we met up for lunch at Lyle’s in Shoreditch, one of her favorite restaurants. I’d caught her the day before she was leaving for another long trip. We fell into an easy friendship, cemented by occasional meetups around the U.S.
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