You *could* bathe in it, but maybe just settle for dipping vegetables in it instead.
So how did these salty little fish become so central to Piedmontese cooking? Theories abound, but the most likely one has to do with salt itself. Once a valuable commodity, salt was heavily taxed along its trade routes. To skirt those taxes, some merchants began packing their salt under layers of salted anchovies—if a government agent cracked open the barrel, they'd see the anchovies and wave them through without demanding the salt tax.
Bagna càuda expands dramatically on an anchovy's ability to melt into a sauce. Instead of melting just a few anchovy fillets into the base of a sauce to subtly enhance its flavor, bagna càuda makes this the sauce's defining feature. Most recipes want the anchovies to dissolve and then disappear, leaving behind a whisper of savoriness. Bagna càuda wants those whispers to pile up on themselves until they become a sustained and booming chorus.
I tested the sauce a few different ways.
The garlic that cooked in oil from the start, without a milk- or water-poaching step, was the hardest to smash into a mush later. This isn't shocking. Even if you take lots of care to keep the oil's temperature low, it doesn't take much for the heat to climb just a little too high, gently frying the garlic and hardening it in the process.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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