Persimmons star in this sun-kissed spin on Marian Burros classic cake. Recipe by benbmims.
For the last 12 years that I lived in New York, smells of cinnamon-tinged, buttery cake filling the air after Labor Day meant one thing: Italian prune plum season was upon us. That season, much like those for ramps in late spring, begins a monthlong scramble when everyone seems to be rushing to the markets to buy the blushing, tart fruits.
In my first autumn in Los Angeles, I wanted to relive that same baking thrill but with less East Coast freneticism. The seasons are subtler and drag on a little longer in California; people sustain excitement for seasonal produce over months, not a few precious weeks.
For my spin on Burros’ classic cake, I wanted to use my favorite fruit, which has a decidedly more West Coast feel than any other: persimmons. Yes, you can get them all across the country , but the sight of them signals “fall in California” to me more than any other, especially in late October and November when I see their dried versions, calledFuyu persimmons, a harbinger of autumn in Los Angeles, lend themselves to being baked in a simple butter cake spiced with turmeric and ginger.
To my delight, both varieties of persimmons — the squat, tomato-like Fuyu and the bell-shaped Hachiya — make a great one-for-one swap with the plums. One caveat: while persimmons, especially the Hachiya variety, need to be water-balloon-ripe to be sweet and delicious, you want fruits that are ripe but still a little firm, like a stress ball. Otherwise, they’ll dissolve in the batter and not maintain their shape.I don’t mess with Burros’ cake batter too much.
Wedges of California persimmon torte, a spin on Marian Burros’ classic plum version, here spiced with turmeric and ginger. Prop styling by Nidia Cueva.Marian Burros’ plum torte is often the first recipe most bakers use, because it’s easy to make, looks great and has stood the test of time. This California spin on it swaps the Italian plums for ripe, fragrant persimmons, which peak in late autumn.
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