A food industry veteran on the ties between race, culture and cooking

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A food industry veteran on the ties between race, culture and cooking
France Dernières Nouvelles,France Actualités
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Cookbook author Alexander Smalls discusses his latest book, 'Meals, Music, and Muses: Recipes from My African American Kitchen,' in the time of the George Floyd protests.

You opened Café Beulah in 1994. What was the response?

As an African American man trying to break into classical opera, I was stopped at the glass ceiling. I realized that not only was I unlikely to be given a seat at the table, but I needed to own the table. I couldn’t build an opera house, but I could own a restaurant.You mention in the book that you see African American food and music as nurturing hope and connection.

Corporate America has never thought twice about putting Aunt Jemima or Uncle Ben on a box and appropriating that image to create a particular concept where Black people do not benefit. It’s the Paula Deens of the world who hire tons of Black people and use their recipes to build wealth and power. This is an old adage, this has been going on for 400 years.said, if you are just mildly conscious in America, you’re always in a state of rage as an African American.

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