Where do the chefs of comperelapin, Bacchanalwine, and more eat and drink on a night off in NOLA?
The quality of the food, for me, is the fancy part of dining out. It’s in the ingredients and the preparation. Bywater American Bistro sources quality ingredients, the food is prepared very well in a technical sense, and the flavors are incredible. You get the upscale, fancy experience of being in a nicer setting, but it’s also in the Bywater, at the edge of where the French Quarter is.
My favorite things there are the oysters with gravy and rice. It’s so weird, because chef and co-owner Levi Raines and I don’t have the same backgrounds in any way, but the dish somehow brings me back to my childhood in Vietnam. We used to eat a dish that was similar to that: rice with gravy, but thickened with rice flour and tapioca starch, and served with grilled seafood. Eating Bywater’s oysters with gravy and rice really reconnects me with that comforting food.
When I go to a fancy place, if I order something fried, I always also order something poached or steamed to complement it. If I order the fried oysters with a dark-roux gravy and rice , I also get the steamed snapper, which is served with broccoli rabe. I like the snapper especially because it’s served with a Crystal hot sauce–inflected Hollandaise—it’s a food-memory thing. It brings me to my time working at the fine-dining classic—the first time I’d had that flavor combination.
Another thing: My wife and I almost never make reservations when we go to Bywater, because our schedules are opposite. But the bar at this place has a lot of room, and you can dine right there, even when you go last-minute. And the food’s good no matter where you sit. The service doesn’t get abbreviated.
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