Asos, Zalando, Suit Supply, G-Star Raw, Calvin Klein parent PVH talk climate risks, supply chain responsibility at OECD due diligence conference.
Brands are facing a rush of regulation that goes beyond collecting certifications and will have to dive deep into their supply chains to make structural change, even while they are reticent to pay up on many initiatives, said panelists at the OECD Forum on Due Diligence in the Garment and Footwear industry.Due Diligence Directive, which is currently stalled. Government and business leaders discussed the risks companies face — everything from losses associated with climate events to bad PR.
It was pulled Feb. 13, just a day before the scheduled approval vote after years of negotiations and previous preliminary approvals. Kofler, a member of the Social Democratic Party, emphasized the country’s abstention was due to disagreement from the Free Democrats party, and said there is still time to bring it back to the table. The law would need to be finalized by the April parliamentary session, ahead of European elections in June.
Brands have been working on plans and protocols with the expectation that the CSDDD would go into effect in 2026, but are now in limbo. Bride said that with the accords, making all information publicly available is key to hold suppliers accountable, and brand pressure can improve standards across the board.Joy Roeterdink, head of corporate responsibility at global menswear retailer Suit Supply, said that as a private company they are not under investor, shareholder or market pressure, and have chosen to make investments with their long-term suppliers.
Many companies are looking at “climate mitigation,” such as moving factories to new countries or finding suppliers in less impacted areas, but Roeterdink said working with artisans to regulate brand quality requires consistent engagement. Brands can’t just cut and run. While Suit Supply may have freedom to invest in its suppliers, there’s not quite as much maneuverability in the investment market, indicated Robeco senior engagement specialist Irina van der Sluijs.
They are part of the investor collective Climate Action 100+, which is pushing for the companies it’s invested in to reduce emissions, she noted. Analyzing a “well-known European sportswear brand,” he said 1.5 to 3 percent of the brand’s assembled goods are likely to be impacted by high heat, resulting in a 5 to 15 percent hit to their net operating profit year-over-year by 2030. That research indicates that adaptive investments of hundreds of thousands of dollars will ensure millions of dollars of goods are protected, he said.
“It’s more broad than an individual approach,” said Sustainable Apparel Coalition executive vice president Andrew Martin. “That’s where the opportunity is to really drive change at scale.” Retailers can feel they are caught in a bind. If they are slow to communicate on these issues, they risk being held accountable when the brands they carry are called out, but they remain reluctant to talk about sustainability for fear of being accused of greenwashing.
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