The Meatpacking District's Lexus restaurant was essentially a vessel for a luxury-car brand’s marketing team. But it was also remarkably good and showed that an open-ended, shape-shifting restaurant could exist in Manhattan
The restaurant featured a rotating cast of guest chefs from around the world. Photo: Daniel Krieger/The New York Times/REDUX For the past two years, sadness has plonked along in ways that have become almost shockingly predictable. In turn, we’ve gotten the hang of mourning the places we will never visit again. By general assent, we mark the loss of institutions like the ‘21’ club and Egg with elegies distinct from those with which we mourn the loss of hot spots like MeMe’s Diner or Flora Bar.
The awkwardly named restaurant, which will serve its final dinner this coming weekend, was an early entrant into the “restaurant as experiential marketing” category. It opened in November 2018 as “a unique creative space for individuals looking to be inspired by fashion, art, food, music, and technology.
Though the chefs in question were present for parts of their residencies, the day-to-day interpretation of their dishes fell to the restaurant’s executive chef, a man named Nickolas Martinez, and his crew. When I climbed the stairs for the final time last week, I saw Martinez at the far side of the bar. He was receiving some sort of what I assume was a parting gift from a regular.
To be honest, the strangest part of Intersect by Lexus maybe was not that it was essentially a vessel for a luxury-car brand’s marketing team. It wasn’t even that it was so remarkably good. It was the very idea itself that an open-ended shape-shifting restaurant could exist in Manhattan in the first place.
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