Kim Jones’s latest Fendi collection looked to Antonio Lopez for inspiration. The timing feels more than a little symbolic. CathyHoryn writes
Photo: Robert Fairer/Robert Fairer The Fendi showroom in Milan sprawls over a former industrial building on Via Solari that also includes a runway large enough to accommodate two dozen or so Roman-size columns. The columns are a reminder that the Fendis come from Rome. But when I arrived at Via Solari on Tuesday afternoon — the day before the show and the start of Milan’s spring 2022 collections — it was a quite different sort of family that I encountered in the showroom.
This season marks the full-scale return of live shows in Europe, though everybody will be masked and spaced apart. For Jones, this show will be particularly important. A widely admired menswear designer who is the creative director of Dior Homme, Jones made his womenswear debut at Fendi a few weeks before much of Europe went into COVID-19 lockdown.
Paintbrush Studies, c. 1978 The Estate and Archive of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos. Paintbrush Studies, c. 1978 The Estate and Archive of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos. What amazes me is how much the collection has evolved since Jones first showed me images back in June. The hand of Lopez was definitely evident in short silk dresses, handbags, and boots that featured Lopez’s exaggerated, richly colored drawings of women.
From left: Photo: Robert Fairer/Robert FairerPhoto: The Estate and Archive of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos From top: Photo: Robert Fairer/Robert FairerPhoto: The Estate and Archive of Antonio Lopez and Juan Ramos “It does bring a youthfulness to it,” Jones says of the artwork. Hence the connection to Lopez. Of course, as many people know — and as a recent documentary made clear — Lagerfeld eventually dropped Lopez and Ramos as friends, and he did not respond to Lopez’s plea for work when the artist was dying from AIDS in 1987. So you can’t help but wonder at the curious synchronism of things, of a Fendi show now based on Lopez’s work.
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