Menswear enthusiasts are scouring resell sites for vintage pieces from the defunct and oft-forgotten brand.
pieces from the women’s runways, adding more conventionally feminine silhouettes and bolder colorways to their wardrobes. In fact, the fervor grew to such an extent that Miu Miu began playing to the crowd, casting men’s models in recent shows and ad campaigns even without formally announcing a range designed for men.
This approach may simply reflect the more fluid understanding of gender within fashion today, of course, but a less noted consequence of men’s growing love for Miu Miu? The rise in collectors buying and selling Miu Miu’s short-lived menswear line, which ran between 1999 and 2009. Most recently, Dover Street Market hosted a buzzy sale of items from the archival trove of stylist
, which featured multiple Miu Miu men’s pieces, including a polyester two-piece suit, a burgundy jacket, and a pair of plaid trousers. But they went fast.Sure, Miu Miu men’s does not have the trending index score of, say, vintage Jean Paul Gaultier or Tom Ford–era Gucci, but a growing demand for Miu Miu’s menswear has gripped resale sites from Grailed to The RealReal, according to regular buyers and sellers of the pieces.
“Every few weeks some guy is emailing asking about these flared trousers we have and when we’re going to get more,” says Michael Kardamakis, the founder of, a fashion archive and e-commerce outlet based in Berlin that regularly rents out coveted vintage pieces to designers sleuthing for inspiration. Over the past few months, he’s received a flurry of requests for the Miu Miu menswear pieces he has in stock, sometimes even struggling to keep up with demand.
So what is it about vintage Miu Miu men’s, exactly, that makes it so popular among collectors and vintage shoppers alike? “I love that the brand is such a clear reflection of the womenswear shows [by Miu Miu], while standing perfectly well on its own,” says Leon Teke, who runs the popular Instagram accountThey specifically cite Miu Miu’s spring 1999 and fall 1999 menswear collections as embodying an ahead-of-its-time, gender-fluid ethos.
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