Why a Hawaii legend opened a restaurant in a Tahoe bowling alley

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Why a Hawaii legend opened a restaurant in a Tahoe bowling alley
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A bowling alley left for dead in Lake Tahoe gets a full redo, including a restaurant from a James Beard Award-winning chef.

The completely overhauled Bowl Incline is a new family-friendly centerpiece for the North Lake Tahoe community of Incline Village.But relying on conventional wisdom isn’t how Steve Tomkovicz has ever thought about doing business. “We lead with the heart, we really do,” he said. “Look, I’ll be the first to admit I knew nothing about bowling. But look around you. We walked in here for the first time, and we knew — this was something the community needed. Maybe we needed it a little, too.

The famous chef’s knee-jerk assessment wasn’t hyperbole. Incline Bowl was on its last legs, and everyone in town knew it. As much as I love grim scenes scored by the sounds of pins ricocheting, it was heartbreaking to witness the decline of a place that, in its heyday, was a clean and well-lit hub for. Many were airline employees and could live anywhere, but chose to be in the mountains — the area’s original remote workers.

“You know, in Tahoe we just don’t get nice things like this,” my bowling partner and friend Dan Sussman told me while we paced cautiously around the refurbished building. It was as if we’d somehow landed on the Yellow Brick Road.

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