Restaurant critic Merrill Shindler reveals five places that do this Italian favorite just right.
, a haven of respite, a nearly Zen experience. I wonder if there are groups who come for lunch, and wind up staying for dinner. Once you’re seated by the lake, the 24/7 worries of CNN seem to fade like the morning mist.
But come for dinner, and the cooking flips from one continent to another. The appetizers run to steamed clams, mozzarella doused in marinara, fried calamari and shrimp scampi. The burrata salad – a wonderful dish, and an easy addiction – reappears, before the menu moves to the chicken Milanese and chicken marsala, the two-veal scaloppini, the lobster ravioli and homemade lasagna.
As waves of trendiness have swept across the east San Fernando Valley, it’s easy for an old school Italian eatery to get lost in the folderol and hoopla. The joys of pasta and pizza have been given short shrift; good for the kids, I guess, but far from au courant. And then, as I did, you drop by at Pagliacci’s, with a craving for tagliatelle or pappardelle – and happiness ensues.
It’s easy to have forgotten the simple pleasure of an order of baked eggplant topped with melted parmesan, mozzarella and tomato sauce – a classic eggplant alla Parmigiana. But, not unexpectedly, what defines the cooking at Pagliacci’s is the pasta, ranging from the plain goodness of spaghetti alla marinara, and lasagna alla Bolognese – to filling wonders like the pappardelle con “short ribs” , and the risotto ai frutti di mare.
As the day goes on, there’s a sabich sandwich , one of the great grab-and-go dishes of the world. There are pizzas made on crunchy lafa bread. And connecting back to the Tunisian roots of shakshuka, there’s a Tunisian sandwich as well, of spicy spread and egg and tuna salad.
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