Highly Recommend: These Detroit-style pies in Atlanta made by a guy from New Jersey.
, a column dedicated to our very opinionated editors’ favorite things to eat, drink, and buy.
The first time I snatched one of Anthony Spina’s grandma pies from the takeout window of his tiny O4W Pizza shop, I knew Atlanta’s pizza game had changed for good. The creamy pats of housemade mozzarella; the slightly sweet marinara sauce cut with garlic; the freshly torn basil; and that oh-so-chewy-crisp square crust. All in all, a perfect pizza. Just $2 a slice, and unlike anything else my mostly-Neapolitan-focused city had to offer.
Then, just a few months later, O4W Pizza was gone. And a few months after that, another crushing blow: It would return but not to the walking-distance-from-my-house Old Fourth Ward neighborhood from which it took its name. Instead, it would be way out in Duluth, a suburb 30 miles away . Born and raised in New Jersey, Spina’s been making pizza since the early ’80s and swears his only secrets are fresh ingredients and a passion for pie. When he came to Georgia, he already had a following—his pizzeria in Long Branch was named one of the ten best in the whole state of New Jersey the same year it opened—so even after he moved to Duluth, die-hard fans still regularly braved the traffic for their now-suburban-dwelling grandma., a new restaurant with business partner Billy Streck, but.
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