When everything's wrong, only baked pasta feels right.
Cases were rising and the weather turned. The green hope and anger of the summer receded, replaced by a slow-burning late afternoon dread. Leaves fell off the trees and branches made skeletons against the sky, and when I saw friends we went home early, shivering in scarves and gloves. We took grim, brisk walks through a city turning rapidly gray and brown, aging into the end of the year. My fingers froze and my toes ached in my boots.
It’s not just the carbs and cheese that makes these dishes as comforting as they are. On Election Day, I made the most complicated lasagna I had ever heard of. A recipe from the, this sage, mushroom, and smoked mozzarella version had been recommended to me years ago by a close friend, but I had never attempted it. I'd thought about it all the time, ever since she’d told me about it, and I’d even ordered the cookbook , weighty and self-important as a paving stone.
Reading the recipe this time, the intimidatingly fussy directions became a balm: I was told to use “the deepest-tasting wild mushrooms you can find,” and that “the thinness of the cut [of the mushrooms] is what gives the dish its delicacy.” Not to mention the whole separate note where the author lets you know that youmust, but you probably should think less of yourself for doing so—instead of being annoyed, I only wanted to fall in deeper.
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