For starters, it's under-appreciated.
to capture and retain bubbles of gas as they emerge. Chemical leaveners allowed bakers to work with thinner, runnier, less glutinous batters, to forego laborious kneading, and to produce airier textures and new, moldable forms.—invented cake as we know it,” Civitello told me. “They did it in their kitchens, experimenting with chemical leaveners,” like cream of tartar. Baking became an opportunity for self-expression.
But don’t take this to mean that cream of tartar is a relic of the past. Dikla Levy Frances praises its unique benefits. “It is,” she says, activating on contact with moisture in a batter. It discourages browning, keeping the insides of The company currently processes 30,000 kg of bitartrates a day in its Spanish facilities, the equivalent of 180 million bottles of wine. This is a vast upcycling operation, one that takes in winemaking by-products from around the world—South Africa, South America, the U.S., and Europe. The company sees the production of cream of tartar to be “a true circle,” in the words of executive vice president Gino Cerulo. “There is no real waste here. From the grape back to the consumer in its pure form.
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