Jeanne Kelley's cookbook 'Vegetarian Salad for Dinner' is a resource for flavor hacks and show-stopping salads-as-meals.
A dozen years ago, when my husband and I decided to stop eating red meat at home, I was faced with two challenges: how to compose meals without the centerpiece of meat, and how to get big flavors into meat-free cooking. After all, meat, so umami-rich, so easy to cook — fry a lamb chop, grill a skirt steak — makes cooking dinner so quick and delicious.
Each recipe is labeled according to its ingredients: black rice, snap peas, pea sprouts, black garlic tofu or dandelion greens, roasted potatoes, romesco. The complexity and sophistication of the salads are immediately apparent; indeed, the photographs show inventive, busy dishes. But the writing is clear, the instructions easy to follow. Don’t be intimidated.Advertisement
“Vegetarian Salad for Dinner” is generally geared toward lacto-ovo vegetarians, but it also includes many vegan recipes and options. Kelley herself is a “flexitarian,” in that she’ll try the meaty local specialty when traveling and eat whatever a host serves her. She grows many of her greens and vegetables and has a small flock of happy hens.
That Kelley is a careful calibrator of flavor and texture became clear as I cooked through the book. Each recipe is balanced in flavor and texture: savory and sweet, spicy and cooling while also crisp, chewy, velvety and juicy. I tend to trust my own instincts, so when making the zucchini and freekeh salad with za’atar, halloumi, I decided that the dressing had too much lemon and added some salt and oil to correct it.
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