Why has tea never really been an American crop, anyway?
I’ve arranged to meet with them here on the farm because I want to know why, according to the American Specialty Tea Alliance,
Processing the tea is equally time-consuming and necessitates a distinct approach for each type. Black tea leaves undergo a harsh process of withering, rolling—a step that spins the leaves into long strings to release their aromatic oils—and oxidizing, which roughly breaks them down to release their rich flavor. Green tea leaves are treated much more gently, and steamed in order to halt oxidation and preserve their color and freshness.
Because specialty tea is hard to grow and hard to process, it's also hard to sell in comparison with commodity teas, which are grown on a large scale for a wholesale market. The lack of specialty growers in the continental US seems to be due to three main obstacles, whether real or perceived: High labor costs in the US—the real Achilles’ heel—can cripple profit and further raise those shelf prices, especially given the labor demands of specialty-tea processing.[Photograph: Vicky Wasik]
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