The uncrowded inlets and towns of Ireland’s Copper Coast tell stories of the country’s ancient past, volcanic activity, Vikings, and even magic
, minus the crowds. “Prehistory is everywhere: in passage tombs, dolmens, and one of the world’s highest concentrations of promontory forts.”
, a former fish auction house reborn as an intimate, family-run spa upholding the centuries-old Irish tradition of seaweed baths. Serrated wrack and other seaweeds are harvested locally, then tossed into great cast-iron tubs filled with warm seawater pumped directly in at high tide. “Here, taste this,” says Andrew Malcolm, another local forager. I dip my finger into a wooden box. “Dried hogweed seeds,” he grins. “It can be used as a cardamom substitute. And this feisty one here: water pepper.”
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