The beloved columnist's new cookbook is full of accessible-yet-special recipes, including this revved-up pantry-friendly olive oil cake.
Some of the recipes, like the pissaladière, fromage fort, pain d’epices, and anchoïade, are clearly Francophone. Others are distinctly Brooklynite, their ingredients and techniques nodding to both the Flatbush neighborhood where Clark grew up and more contemporary flavors of today's New York: rye flour, oxtail, hot honey, sheet-pan dinners. Many acknowledge flavors that came to French cuisine via France's colonial history, particularly North African.
Regardless of their origin, all of the book's recipes are enticing, welcoming, and thorough . They're also all distinctly from Melissa Clark, enthusiastically cementing her well-established love of garlic, butter, and especially anchovies . There are more complex recipes that demand hours and breezy, lighthearted ones .
But even more interesting than the recipes themselves is the meaningful personal context the book's writing lends—to its own recipes, yes, but also to Clark’s whole career. It brings to mind the French word"terroir," that describes how the conditions in which a grape is grown shapes the flavor of the wine.
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