Toni Tipton-Martin's Cookbook, Jubilee, Is a Source of Black Joy

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Toni Tipton-Martin's Cookbook, Jubilee, Is a Source of Black Joy
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'Jubilee' reconstructs the true narrative of African American culinary history.

, Tipton-Martin celebrates and honors the cultural hallmarks that allow Black American culture to flourish—even when societal failures attempt to decimate it.To find out how and why Tipton-Martin came to writerequires that we revisit the past: American culinary history owes a debt to Black Americans.

There’s the tale of Samuel Fraunces, who owned and operated a tavern in lower Manhattan in the late 1700s, which eventually became Fraunces Tavern."Black Sam," as he was known, hosted guests like General George Washington, who delivered a farewell address to his officers at that very location. You’ll read of Chef George Crum, who invented the potato chip In Saratoga Springs, New York in 1853, after a guest at his restaurant complained that his French-fried potatoes were cut too thick.

"So much of the storyline for African Americans in the food industry revolves around those tropes, and I have been intentional about using the same practice that created the construct to disassemble it," Tipton-Martin says. African American food is not a monolith; like other cuisines, its food identity spans regions and generations. Many of the dishes inmay come as a surprise to readers, because white America has historically put Black food into such a narrow box.

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