Why we can't stop cooking from abraberens's book, Ruffage.
EL: I love the beet-dressed pasta so much. Can you tell me more about that recipe? Did you taste it somewhere? Or had the puree around and wondered what you could put it on?I hosted a dinner at the farm that was a full beet dinner, showcasing all the colors and uses, and I made a beet risotto. Originally I thought it would be a plain risotto with beet greens folded in and pickled beets on top.
EL: You have a bunch of purees in this book: cauliflower, celery root, corn, eggplant, parsnip, peas, sunchokes. What is it about vegetable purees that you love? I think I'm so fixated on purees because they feel like that sweet spot between what I do as a chef and what I do as a home cook. A puree feels fancy, but it's often the recipe with the fewest ingredients, and it lasts so long and is so versatile. That speaks to the restaurant mentality of: How can you leverage a single ingredient to really be a workhorse? I find purees to be a workhorse. Plus, they're so comforting.
EL: This recipe reminded me of the kale sauce in Six Seasons, which is really heavy on the kale and light on the oil and cheese, almost like a pesto without the fun stuff. I kept thinking: Is this going to work? Is it going to taste good? But when you season it properly and dress it on something like pasta, it tastes incredible.It's funny, as a chef, I've always been nervous about making things that are too simple, because it doesn't feel like I'm doing enough.
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