By many ways of looking at it, Czar a project that shouldn’t work. But as the old wine cliché goes, the harder the grapes have to fight for their survival, the better the wine tastes. And the more Fortunato Garcia persists with his crazy project, the better his product.
The name would seem to say something about the aspirations of his target clientele, but in fact it’s a nod to Pico’s history. The vineyards of Criação Velha were first planted in 1690. In 1797, Pico’s late harvest wine was served at a banquet for the Prince and Grand Master of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.
When I ask Garcia how he explains it in English, he throws up his hands. “Some people call it a dessert wine,” he says, but he disagrees because it’s not all that sweet and can be enjoyed as an aperitif or with a meal. “Sweet wine” is incorrect for the same reason. “Late harvest” is closer, as the grapes are harvested late, in October when they’re shriveled and sweet, but as a wine term it means something specific and different. “Raisin wine” sounds more appetizing in Portuguese.
I may not be a wine critic, but I do know hospitality. And so does Garcia. Which is why , as good as the wine tastes in the glass or looks in the bottle, it doesn’t compare with going to source and sipping it with the winemaker himself. Visiting the Czar winery is not a particularly opulent affair. From the outside, it looks like a rather ordinary house, surrounded by vineyards with the ocean just down the hill. Inside, it’s…cluttered. A long table sits in the middle.
Garcia is relaxed as he hosts his visitors, telling them about the history of Pico wines and the tribulations of his grapes. He’s also a schoolteacher, so you can’t just roll up. But if you make an appointment, he’ll make it worth your while. The most accessible is the simple tasting: a glass of the 2011 vintage plus some snacks, as well as his time and his stories. But it’s silly to go all that way and do only that. Another option is to buy a bottle of the 2013 vintage , which will be served with Azores cheese that’s been aged more than five years, which has an intriguing complexity all its own. , with generous lashings of Czar in the broth, plus a bottle of Czar for the group, as well as some rare table wines.
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