What should we expect from a cup of coffee in Los Angeles? Almost anything, our critic learns.
Mondays are Jack Benchakul’s favorite day of the week at Endorffeine. He looks forward to the calm, even though he’s grateful for the streams of coffee fans that file into his tiny shop on Saturdays and Sundays. Ttaya Tuparangsi, his cousin, takes orders from the no-nonsense menu of options: espresso, cortado, cappuccino, latte and pour-over. From the beginning it has been only the two of them.
Talking about calcium content in the brewing water as a means to a sweeter-tasting espresso at Endorffeine could sound like the height of pretension. If you talk with Benchakul, though, he radiates sincerity. His aim is simply to make coffee you’ll love. The upshot of so many choices in Los Angeles: It’s the ultimate city in which to ask, “What am I looking for in a coffee shop experience?” There are as many answers as there are questions.
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