Whose interests does the “World’s 50 Best” restaurants list serve? asytsma writes
Jellied ham and tomato water at Geranium. Photo: Yadid Levy/Anzenberger/Redux Here we go again: The group of chefs, editors, and sponsors that assemble the yearly “World’s 50 Best” restaurants list have unveiled their 2022 edition of the obsequious rankings at a ceremony hosted by none other than Stanely Tucci, in which an establishment in Copenhagen not named Noma earned the right to call itself the best restaurant in the world.
In the beginning, the list was intended to be something of an antidote to Michelin’s staid system of stars, but over its two decades of existence, it’s begun to feel as predictable and exclusionary as the tire guide it was meant to replace.
Over the past year or so, a number of detailed reports have emerged that detail the current struggles within Eleven Madison Park ; pre-pandemic conditions inside Blue Hill at Stone Barns ; and the “misleading,” “toxic” environment at Willows Inn in Washington State . Individually, the stories contain dozens of unsettling allegations.
More than anything, the “World’s 50 Best” list as it currently stands promotes the antiquated Chef’s Table fantasy celebrating the tradition that creative expression and luxury values should trump all other considerations, including the health of the people who provide those meals.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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