The Un-Heroic Reality of Being an ‘Essential’ Restaurant Worker

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The Un-Heroic Reality of Being an ‘Essential’ Restaurant Worker
France Dernières Nouvelles,France Actualités
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'The reality ignored by every StayAtHome PSA is that people’s ability to social distance relies on the labor of others'

, where chefs, restaurateurs, writers, and industry insiders share their perspectives about the food world, tackling a range of topics through the lens of personal experience. First-time writer? Don’t worry, we’ll pair you with an editor to make sure your piece hits the mark.

Since Los Angeles’s Safer-at-Home initiative was instated, the nightly staff at our restaurant has shrunk by more than half, with only one front-of-house person and two cooks per shift. My hours have been reduced from five to two nights a week. We all wear masks: The owners provided each of us with a disposable one when the pandemic started, but by now most everyone has switched to their own reusable ones.

“I’m really disappointed,” she said. “I expected the food to be here in time for my virtual happy hour.”In moments like these, it’s a relief to let my customer service facade slip away and speak bluntly. I try to keep it moving and turn such encounters into funny anecdotes, but still they stew in my stomach in a simmering rage.

What I am getting used to instead is the arrival of a future that tech companies have been priming us for: public spaces populated mostly by delivery drivers purchasing doomsday groceries and meals for those wealthy enough to stay home.

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