From New York to Paris, at the spring 2022 collections, the most exciting shows broke with the familiar format of the runway
, “Love Brings Love,” for its strong sense of community spirit. Rick Owens, Jean Paul Gaultier, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Anthony Vaccarello, Pierpaolo Piccioli, and Olivier Rousteing all made looks in Alber’s honor and sat side-by-side in the AZ Factory front row.
In between, Vogue Runway’s reporters tallied up nearly 150 spring 2022 reviews of IRL shows. How does a designer stand out in that mix? What makes a show connect? Great clothes are essential, but those you can find off the catwalk in appointments, presentations, and even Zoom calls, which, of course, there were no shortage of either.Being back in the room again, to me it seemed that rising above the runway throng required emotion and experimentation.
Another thing that the industry has gotten wrong for too long: its insistence on exclusivity. Olivier Rousteing’s 6,000-person audience at was mostly clients and fans, and their wild cheers for Precious Lee and Alva Claire were a lesson in thinking beyond the industry’s narrow definition of aspirational. As Eugenie Trochu, the new editorial content lead at Paris, told me, Olivier is “representative of the new way of thinking in the fashion world: to connect to your audience, your followers, and to be more open.”Telfar Clemens and Babak Radboy are way out ahead on the fashion-as-entertainment tip.
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