‘Oh my god this is a great find’ a new generation of Californians discovers Bakersfield’s 112-year-old Luigi’s restaurant and deli.
Cook Johnny Tarnoff, right, prepares some dishes inside the open kitchen at Luigi's in Bakersfield, Calif., on April 1.“I’ve been at this spot all my life — 60 years,” Lemucchi said in the early ’70s. “My father started the store. I come from quite a line of cooks. My dad was quite a chef, and my mother came from a family of cooks. I do all the cooking now. I’ll tell you.”
Valpredo started his ascent by working in the kitchen, and in spite of his experience cooking abroad, his first job was scrubbing pots and pans. The patrons on the afternoon I was visiting were very willing with their praise, as folks enjoying themselves at the bar can be, saying they’ve been to Luigi’s a million times, mentioning that the place is like family — it’s home — and no matter how far they travel from Bakersfield, when they’re back in town, it’s the place to go to feel grounded again.
I follow him to the basement. The floor above us creaks as customers shuffle across the old black linoleum, shiny from decades of use. “Legacies can be a challenge. ... There’s a lot to live up to.” - Gino Valpredo, lower right, owner of the 112-year-old Luigi's in Bakersfield, Calif. Surrounded by reminders of the past, Valpredo pauses and looks around. He says his four children are getting older, now aged 16-25, but he doesn’t want to speculate or speak for whether they’ll choose a path similar to his. The business is a crazy one, at times unrelenting, he says — and he’s good whether or not they become a part of it.
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