Highly Recommend: Hoosier Mama for savory, yes savory, pies.
, a column dedicated to our very opinionated editors’ favorite things to eat, drink, and buy.
If I had to choose between a sweet or savory pie, the old me would always go sweet. No exception. They were what I knew best. After years devouring them, I synonymized the subtle sharpness of mace in my grandmother’s sweet potato pies and the deep warmth of my mother’s cinnamon-tinged apple pies with the pinnacle of comfort. I was so fond of the sweet stuff that I didn’t feel any real need to explore the world of savory pies.
The pie arrived in a flaky double crust laced with fresh thyme. Inside was shredded dark meat, tender from simmering in a rich cognac-spiked stock, and delicate bits of onions, carrots, and sweet peas, all swirling in a silken, peppery béchamel. Warming and complex yet familiar and approachable, it was a pie that was new and exciting and made me forget all about my sweet tooth.
Over the next three and a half years, I became a regular at Hoosier Mama, trying a new pie, from the smoky barbecue pork pie to the warming curry lamb one, every time a visited. With each first bite, I couldn’t help but laugh at myself. I had been missing out on savory pies for so long. I know better now.
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