In Mexico City, historic havens of coffee, pastries, and chop suey are in danger of disappearing
I’m sitting with a giant plate of chop suey beneath the painted gaze of Martin de Porres, the Catholic saint of racial harmony. His solemnity is mocked by the smiling, rosy-cheeked baby dressed for the Chinese New Year who appears on the wall next to him. A busker walks in strumming a mournful Mexican bolero.
To the uninitiated, the various styles of pan chino look like other morning treats you find throughout Mexico — pan dulce like biscuits, conchas, panques, and flaky triangle-shaped pastries with apple or pineapple filling. But one bite reveals a slightly denser, moister texture, and with an almost imperceptible salty-sweet tug of war.
Jesus’s father purchased Café Allende from a fellow immigrant from Canton, a transaction that was typical, as businesses were often passed from one Chinese immigrant to another. It was a part of the necessary solidarity that existed at a time when anti-Chinese sentiment was high and informal moneylending and interpersonal networks were largely the only avenues for immigrants to start their own businesses.
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