Though Taiwan boasts a lot of great foods, the hefty, chile-glazed, dumpling-like meatball reflects the island’s culinary history and terroir, from the sweet potato starch wrapper to the bamboo and pork filling.
In the central Taiwanese city of Changhua, just next door to Taichung, one of the alleged birthplaces of bubble tea, shops and stalls serve another local snack that looks a lot like a giant translucent boba. It’s about the size of a fist and fills a small bowl. It’s jiggly and soft, yet pulls back from chopsticks with considerable resistance. Unlike its sweet neighbor boba, though, this wobbly treat is entirely savory.
Though the crystal meatball was born out of a short moment of desperation — and has since been augmented with pork in the filling, tapioca starch in the wrapper, and sauce for topping — all of the essential components run deep in the island’s culinary culture. Today, bawan has become a celebrated local specialty with regional variants all throughout Taiwan, but it’s also an enduring mascot for scrappy Taiwanese cuisine.
“You need to have the skill to paste over the starch or else it won’t be even,” says Lin Wen Chun, the second-generation proprietor of Da Zhu Taiwanese Meatball in Changhua. Lin is a crystal meatball specialist whose father started up the shop nearly half a century ago. While most people associate Taiwan today with filling bowls of beef noodle soup and flaky discs of scallion pancakes, the truth is that wheat flour was not utilized en masse on the island until the 1950s, when the American government started sending massive shipments of wheat to Taiwan as part of an internationalPrior to this, sweet potatoes and rice were the main carbs of choice on the island, sown and grown on farmlands occupied by the first major waves of Chinese immigrants to Taiwan in the...
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