The intricate material evokes innocence, kink, domesticity and grandeur. Its history is just as complex.
From left: Lace designs from Chanel Spring 2023, Simone Rocha Fall 2020, Akris Spring 2023.
For Bode Aujla, there’s an emotional bent to the adaptation: “I work with lace because as a material it holds so much sentimental value,” she says. “It was so laborious to make and the affiliation with its end use—birth, marriage, holidays, death—is significant.”A one-of-a-kind Bode shirt made from vintage lace.These affiliations have an economic weight as well. Before value was communicated through celebrity, it was attached to labor.
Lace itself is hard to define, partially due to the manifold versions it appears in throughout history. Unlike other embroideries, lace has no base fabric. Patterns are built instead with loose thread using a variety of techniques. Originally the term “lace” referred to a narrow braid, and later came to encompass all forms of non-woven, knitted, crocheted, and needle-made openwork textiles.
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