The virtuoso tailoring of Belgium’s great designers was a major influence for spring. Longtime acolyte Sarah Harris tries on the look for size.
, everyone says:But what shoes? Tights, or bare-legged? What underwear—and then what on earth goes over the top? A cardigan seems trite. A jacket? Sure, but whatof jacket? Once you’ve overcome those challenges, you have to adhere to some basic behavioral codes, like how to sit upright, with legs crossed.
The spring ’23 collections were awash with references: See Gigi Hadid walking for Victoria Beckham ingreat suit, deconstructed at the back; moody, mannish tailoring at Burberry; a series of inky all-black looks at Dries Van Noten; minimal but gargantuan double-breasted blazers and breezy white shirts at Stella McCartney. Even Valentino, it seems, got the bigger-is-better shoulder memo.you cry, and you’d be right—but this time around it feels softer, more romantic.
“I’m drawn to strong shoulders and silhouettes,” Centenera says. “I think tailoring frames you in a way that makes you feel powerful, in control, and confident.” Perhaps surprisingly, height restrictions don’t apply: Centenera’s diminutive frame is proof that you don’t have to be six-foot-something to carry off an exaggerated proportion.
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