“‘The Bear’ remains as absorbing as ever, with a visual language that is in love with food and in love with the city itself,” writes Tribune critic Nina_Metz.
Thank you for supporting our journalism. This article is available exclusively for our subscribers, who help fund our work at the Chicago Tribune.From left: Jeremy Allen White as Carmen “Carmy” Berzatto and Ayo Edebiri as Sydney Adamu, watching as the sign for the Original Beef of Chicagoland comes down in"The Bear."
Carmy’s idea of working out a budget amounts to jotting down estimates on an empty pizza box, so his sister Natalie is roped in as project manager. The place will be getting a face-lift. No, scratch that. It needs a total gut remodel once they discover all kinds of problems hidden in the walls and ceilings.
I say “them,” but that only pertains to Carmy and Natalie. This is their family legacy. As the show subtly notes, neither Sydney nor anyone else breaking their backs here — dirtbag extraordinaire Richie , recently promoted sous chef Tina , the goofball handyman — has an ownership stake. And there’s no discussion of profit-sharing. That begins to dawn on Sydney as she visits various restaurateurs around the city, seeking their advice, while Carmy is off in the wind somewhere.
Carmy has other plans for the rest of the staff. He sends Tina and fellow cook Ebraheim to culinary school to sharpen their skills, but the show more or less abandons the latter, who remains enigmatic and underserved by the narrative.
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