Anglo-Thai grub was first dished out at the Churchill Arms in Kensington in 1991 and is now served in at least 30 taverns across London
. For budding restaurateurs in Britain, setting up shop in a pub was seen as less risky than starting from scratch. Landlords usually had dining space that was not being used effectively, which made it easy for entrepreneurial cooks to make a compelling business case.
Pubs may have poky kitchens, but that does not matter with this style of cooking. Many Thai dishes are based on street food and rely on a few versatile ingredients, including chillies, coconut milk, herbs, lime and tamarind. A flexible menu does not require a vast stockroom or counter space. It helps, too, that the flavoursome cuisine pairs superbly with beer and is quick to prepare.
Regardless of how it came to be, the popularity of Thai pub food reflects Londoners’ open-mindedness as well as their desire for continuity. If you mess around with the formula of a quintessential pub too much, you risk unsettling regulars who take comfort in tradition. But that’s not to say you cannot please them with the mouth-watering street food of Bangkok—so long as it is served with a pint of room-temperature bitter.
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