If you’re getting store-bought tortellini, make sure it’s the good kind.
Archer Farms Four-Cheese Tortellini, $4 for a 17-ounce package at TargetTo find the best store-bought tortellini, we first widened our search to include tortelloni—which is the same pasta shape, only larger. At least, technically—we found some brands were labeled tortellini no matter the size of the pasta. Having a loose definition of "tortellini" allowed us to open up the search to more brands since every variety of each brand we tasted wasn't available in our local market.
The point is this: trust your gut. Dried tortellini will take the longest to cook—start checking them after 10 minutes and then gauge how much longer you think they'll need. Refrigerated pastas will cook the quickest; you should start checking them after 2 minutes. To test, keep a bowl of cold water next to your stove. Scoop out one piece of pasta when you think it's done and drop into the cold water to quickly cool it off so that you can take a bite.
In the end, we cooked each pasta to taste–until the centers were warmed through and the pasta was al dente. Some of the more fragile tortellini split, expelling their cheesy innards before they were fully cooked . After the pasta was cooked, we tossed 350 grams of each pasta with 1 teaspoon of vegetable oil to keep the pasta from sticking. A panel of Epicurious editors and staff tasted the plain, cooked pasta warm in a blind tasting.
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