This sweet-and-sour spiced pickle is a classic of the Southern American table, and makes the most of a part of the watermelon that otherwise gets thrown out: its crisp-fresh rind.
Trimming the watermelon rind of almost all red flesh as well as the tough green skin ensures a pickle that's crisp-tender throughout.
I was recently back down on the Eastern Shore of Maryland, standing in front of the modest house that my grandfather Morton had built and where my mom and aunt grew up. Behind the house, the headwaters of the Chester River gently flow and all around the tiny town are endless acres of farmland.
"Pickle" only half gets at the idea. It'd be equally accurate to describe the rind as "candied," as it's boiled in a brine that's as syrupy as it is tart, loaded with cider vinegar and sugar, and fragrant notes of warm spices like cinnamon and clove. Watermelon rind is so often just thrown away, but it makes up a significant portion of the fruit: One 13-pound melon can yield nearly half its weight as trimmed rind, a feast that too often ends up in the garbage.
The method I use is even simpler, and I find it works as well as the others I've tried—I simply whip up the syrupy brine, then add the rind, and boil it until tender and partially translucent, which takes about 40 minutes or so. The result is pretty close to what I remember my mom making, despite not having any official family recipe.
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