Snowshoe to solitude: Hike to pioneers’ cabins in Rocky Mountain National Park even in the winter

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Snowshoe to solitude: Hike to pioneers’ cabins in Rocky Mountain National Park even in the winter
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From snow-fed glaciers, to sugar-dusted mountains and white-blanketed valleys, snowshoeing provides a chance to see RMNP's natural wonders up close and at your own pace

The west side of RMNP receives fewer visitors than the east side near Estes Park. For Front Range residents it’s a bit farther drive to the western entrance near Grand Lake, with a few elements that may be sketchy — battling Interstate 70 traffic and crossing Berthoud Pass. But the benefits are many, including a spectacular scenic drive into Grand Lake.

The park road is plowed daily up to 12 miles. I thought about the east side of the park and how the Bear Lake parking lot likely was choked with cars and overflowing with people. I was filled with gleeful anticipation, like a kid ready to jump out of the family car at the amusement park. Snow on either side of the winding road sparkled like diamonds. And, for the moment, it was all ours.

There’s no denying the elephant in the room — the forest, or lack of it. Although the fire burned a slim fragment of the park it is still a devastating sight. The burn scar flanks Trail Ridge Road from the entrance for about 5 miles into the park. Where there once was a tall green forest rolling across miles of terrain, the great expanse lays bare, opening up telescopic details showcasing the shape of the landscape. “You can really see the land now,” Kaiyote said.

It was a viewpoint I began to appreciate as I realized that each year the meadows and slopes will undergo a rebirth and become flush with new growth. In the beginning, an abundance of wildflowers will carpet the Kawuneeche. Eventually, another mixed conifer forest will fill in across the valley. The giant forest may not emerge in our lifetime but it’s important to remember that nature has its own timeline.

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