The food is authentic; the prices and the atmosphere less so
in Singapore, where your columnist once lived. They let groups of friends with different tastes and dietary requirements eat together. They are unpretentious and fun: vendors banter and flirt with their customers and the open setting encourages relaxed conversation.
Urban Hawker in Manhattan hews to the same basic design principles, with vendors along the walls and communal tables in the centre. The hawkers sell similar foods to their Singaporean counterparts, including creditablewith. A sublime chicken rice could hold its own with any stall in Singapore, the poached chicken soothingly soft and springy, every grain of rice distinct yet slicked with rich chicken flavour, the sauces—thick soy, fiery chilli and ginger—complementary rather than overpowering.
But unlike Singapore’s hawker centres, Manhattan’s is indoors. It has a cocktail bar, whereas Singapore’s serve nothing stronger than Tiger, the local lager. And the prices are high: New Yorkers will evidently pay around $20 for a plate of chicken rice that would cost a few Singaporean dollars . In Singapore, everyone eats at hawker centres because they are everywhere and serve familiar food cheaply. In New York that role mainly falls toand fast-food chains. Urban Hawker’s target clientele is posher: the sort of people who know what hawker centres are despite living halfway around the world. Dining there is an event rather than a habit.
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