New York photographer Mariette Pathy Allen has been photographing the trans community for over 40 years.
, which the museum describes as “documenting the spectrum of gender expression.” Selected from thousands of analogue photographs, Allen’s photos detail a time when DIY events and conferences were safe spaces for the queer and trans community to come together and fight, as well as hope, for a more equal future.
It all started when Allen took a trip to New Orleans in 1978 to attend Mardi Gras, and met a group of women who invited her for brunch. When she took a group photo of them,. Over the following decades, she not only captured candid photos of gorgeous women and men dressed to the nines, at home, but also their grassroots activism and protests.
Allen has been embedded with the community for a long time, and has had incredible access; whether photographing drag queens putting on makeup at drag balls in Harlem in the 80s, lesbian couples in the 90s, or her best friend Toby, starting in 1978. They all capture the closeness she felt to her subjects; and some have been compiled into her 1989 photo book,
, which was a groundbreaking book at a time when the trans community was largely misunderstood. Allen, now 79, spoke toHow did you get into photographing the trans community?I was lucky, I was in New Orleans for Mardi Gras in 1978 and stayed in the same hotel as a group of crossdressers. The last day for breakfast, I came down with my camera equipment and I saw this group of ten people and one asked if I wanted to ask them for brunch. I did.
Toby was a beautiful woman; I’m showing of her here is her lying on the floor after a long day of shooting. There’s also one of her looking in the mirror. She was a remarkable person. Toby was a performer who would go onstage before
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