The Schiaparelli spring 2023 collection is here. See every look:
Today at the Hôtel d’Évreux, Daniel Roseberry said that Schiaparelli needed to move its show because the house’s salons next door were too busy with selling appointments. Meanwhile, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs’s Schiaparelli exhibition, “Shocking!,” is drawing crowds of its own. Roseberry has rounded the three-year mark at Schiap. From Lady Gaga at the inauguration and Bella Hadid in Cannes to that museum show, his first cycle has been a smash.
The task at hand, Roseberry acknowledged, is holding onto the excitement and exclusivity that surrounds Schiap as Surrealism goes more mainstream and the brand becomes more accessible. “I don’t want it to become a schtick,” he said. Grabbing the world’s attention is easier than keeping it, as any old hand in fashion will tell you. But Roseberry is approaching the task well fortified, as a walk around today’s presentation demonstrated. The ready-to-wear’s backbone is tailoring—quite literally in the case of a jacket embellished with ribs, after a famous Elsa Schiaparelli skeleton dress suit circa 1938.
The denim hews to the same more-is-more formula; the dusting of gold sequins across the backside of a pair of jeans, designed to look like sand on the bum, was especially inspired. An evening capsule was born from a summer holiday in Italy, where Roseberry saw women sunbathing in solid-colored swimsuits and big, bold jewelry. He re-created the look here via a brown halter dress suspended from a gold neck plate with a kiss in the middle, and a hooded dress in the brightest red silk jersey.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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