Octopus looms large on the menu at San Antonio's Aguachile Seafood.
If you’re a sucker, as it were, for whole octopus, be prepared to shell out more than $70 for any one of five iterations available at the Mexican seafood spot. That’s surely a local pricing record for a cuisine that many reflexively think of only in terms of tacos.
Be that as it may, when octopus is cut up, as it is in the joyous jumble of seafood that fills Aguachile’s caldo de mariscos, it’s easier to plead ignorance and simply enjoy the tender bits. Even a simple tostada de camaron cocido at Aguachile, flanked by chile-dusted cucumbers and sliced avocado, comes across as over-the-top. Whole shrimp laced with a spicy mayo crown a bed of the chopped shellfish, in turn bedded on a duo of shatteringly crisp tostadas sandwiching a layer of plain mayo.
A michelada, served in a weighty schooner with a heavily crusted rim, seems appropriate at that point. It arrives with a bottle of your choice of beer — Pacifico, in this case — dunked headfirst into the spicy brew. Extracting it without additional mess is half the fun, and some beer will remain for topping off as the level sinks. There’s also a Tajin-crusted wand stuck in the glass to up the spice quotient as needed.
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