Though Rick Steves has said it’s almost criminal to spend a sunny Swiss day anywhere but high in the Alps, he makes an exception for urban but easygoing Bern.
The sidewalk going up the Aare River is congested with wet and happy Swiss, hiking upstream in swimsuits just to float back into town. I join them — marvelling at how this exercise brings out the silly in a people who are generally anything but goofy.
That evening for dinner, I walk downstream to that scary weir where a trendy restaurant has been built literally over the rushing river. I enjoy tasty local trout over see-through floorboards as the noisy roar of the racing river masks conversations of the Swiss sipping beer on the open-air sofas. As Bern grew over the centuries, each of its successive walls and moats were torn down, providing vast, people-friendly swaths of land. Today these are elongated “squares,” popular for markets and outdoor cafés — the top places to be seen in the evening.
The parliament meets in the old town. You may brush elbows with some high-powered legislators, but you wouldn’t know it — everything looks very casual for a national capital. Its bicameral system was inspired by the US Constitution, with one big difference: Executive power is shared by a committee of seven, with a rotating ceremonial president and a passion for consensus.
France Dernières Nouvelles, France Actualités
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