It may be located in the Time Out Market, but Valhalla is already one of Chicago's most exciting new restaurants.
Chef Stephen Gillanders creates the Rohan duck confit dish at Valhalla inside Time Out Market in Chicago’s Fulton Market district on March 10, 2023.Advertisement
Fair warning: Do not visit if you demand a serene evening in a room of neutral colors and hushed conversations. At Valhalla, you’ll undoubtedly need to lean in to hear your dining partners and politely ask the waitstaff to repeat themselves if more than a few feet away.Valhalla is Stephen Gillanders’ biggest statement yet, the one where his mercurial ingredient combinations hit the hardest and surprise the most.
I’d return just to order the maitake mushroom kebab. The kitchen amplifies the meaty qualities of the mushroom, before pairing it with sharp chevre, charred avocado and a slightly spicy Fresno chile sauce.Even better is the Rohan duck confit. The confit is textbook, with miraculously crisp skin that encases lusciously tender meat. Yet it also arrives coated in smoked gochujang, the moderately spicy Korean red chile paste, and rests in a refreshing gazpacho made with tomatillos.
He’s right. Executive pastry chef Tatum Sinclair’s creations are essential to any ending here, striking a delicate balance between playfulness without slipping into indulgence. The standout is the black marble Pavlova, which really does arrive looking like a monochromatic dome of marble. But crack the top meringue and you’ll unleash a filling so vibrantly colored it seems to glow.
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