Oakville Grill & Cellar has Chicago's largest California-only wine list, which fortunately showcases that state's many great regions.
The dining room at The Oakville Grill & Cellar, 163 N. Green Street in Chicago, is seen on Wednesday, Aug. 16, 2023.
Location is everything in the wine world, and as Karen MacNeil writes in “The Wine Bible,” places in California such as Napa Valley experience that “magical combination of days that are hot but not blistering and nights that are cool but not cold.” Have I tried any of these wines? Of course not. While fun for the ultrawealthy or those on a generous expense account, they have nothing to do with how I or most Chicagoans drink wine.
The restaurant does a great job of handling the particulars. Instead of an imposing and weighty tome, the wine menu is clear and helpful, with plenty of maps and information about each region. The glasses are thin and elegant. Wine-by-the-glass options come in 6- or 9-ounce pours, allowing you to sample multiple options, or simply hunker down with a favorite.
So where does the food come into the equation? The menu is enormous, with multiple kinds of steak and seafood cooked over a wood-fired grill, along with pasta, pizza and salads galore. At first, the menu felt too nebulous, making it hard to know where to even begin. But according to chef Max Robbins, that is sort of the point. “We are trying not to take ourselves too seriously,” Robbins said. “We really want the guests to feel comfortable. It’s a little fun and a little playful.
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