A fire rages in Warlord’s kitchen. This is only partly a metaphor. nickdk has more.
Thank you for supporting our journalism. This article is available exclusively for our subscribers, who help fund our work at the Chicago Tribune.From left, Trevor Fleming, John Lupton, and Emily Kraszyk work behind the counter at Warlord in Chicago's Avondale neighborhood on June 12, 2023.While three determined chefs bustle about the Avondale restaurant, a literal wood-fueled inferno blazes in the corner of the open kitchen. Flames leap off the wood, licking the sides of the hearth.
It’s not like Warlord goes full free jazz every night, improvising the dishes top to bottom. There are categories. In general, you’ll find a few starters, a pasta dish, both a raw and a cooked fish, plus a large red meat offering. As for specifics, your guess is as good as mine. This is not standard restaurant practice. Usually, dining is all about creating consistent experiences for the customer. But often Warlord feels like an intentional revolt against the supposed wisdom of the current dining scene. Hate QR codes and additional service fees? You won’t find any of that here. You might have to wait in line or miss a dish you saw posted on Instagram because it’s no longer available, but that’s just part of the deal.
“We always knew we wanted to have a burger,” Lupton said. “We didn’t want to exclude anyone. We also provide a higher-end experience, but you can come for a burger and a beer and hang out. That’s what we thought about.”The menu prices are surprisingly moderate, with all but one under $31. Sure, a 10-ounce, dry-aged rib-eye goes for $60, but considering the prices that steak goes for downtown, that’s entirely reasonable.
I’m not the only one onto Warlord. Numerous rave reviews have gone up. For my second visit, I waited in a line 30 people deep before the restaurant opened. The excitement is palpable, if only because it still feels like the beginning. “The further we get into working in the space, the more we’ll be able to evolve,” Kraszyk said. “It’s very different from every other kitchen I’ve been in, which is a great thing.
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