Tim Ho Wan Irvine's barbecue pork buns and har gow aren't that far removed from the Hong Kong shops. But it feels more like a Cinnabon than a dim sum house.
The buzz of the dining room is a tell-tale sign of a good dim sum restaurant: It hums like a raucous turn-of-the-century cocktail party, where the revelers are families crowded around tables the size of small carousels piled high with stacks of plates and steam baskets and teapots.
The ambiance at our Tim Ho Wan is more Cinnabon than banquet hall: pale wood, red cushions at the counter bar, a pristine wall of tea urns, a golden dragon or two on the wall. To be fair, the That said, Irvine’s version is not the dim sum grail that you might expect, given the Michelin hype. The baked barbecue pork buns that are the chain’s emblematic dish, textured pillows of pastry enveloping a pocket of, are a notch too sweet, whereas the famous originals, in an admirable bit of restraint, halt just short of pork-pie-as-dessert. The steamed egg cake that paired so well with repeating pots of the housein Hong Kong suffered from coarse crumb syndrome.
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