Our restaurant critic BillAddison reviews Alta Adams’ take on California soul food and finds a lot to love.
To understand Keith Corbin as a chef, and the cooking at Alta Adams he calls “California soul food,” order his oxtails over rice. They arrive wholly undisguised: blocks of butchered appendage, the tailbones in jutting shapes of jigsaw puzzle pieces surrounded by supple meat. Corbin sears the oxtails and then braises them in a liquid infused with miso and soy. Like exceptionally tight background vocals, the flavorings add harmonic shimmer without pulling focus from the lead melody.
Corbin was raised on these foods: He grew up in Watts, where his family has lived for generations. His great-grandmother arrived in California from Mobile, Ala., in search of work at the cusp of World War II. He fondly remembers the sanctuary of his grandmother’s kitchen in particular, but he didn’t set out at Alta to exactly replicate how she’d done things behind the stove.
The restaurant, and its adjoining Adams Coffee Shop, sits on a sunny corner along a stretch of blocks with few other full-service dinner options. Word, happily, is out: Its two butterscotch-toned dining rooms are always full; I’ve not witnessed more racially diverse crowds in a Los Angeles restaurant. When I mentioned it to Corbin on the phone, he said, “I’m proud this has become a place where black folks are celebrating.
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